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Monday, October 31, 2011

Adventures and Australians

So far several adventures have taken place, a fantastic feat all things considered (we aren't even halfway through our travel week!). Each regards our actual traveling, and as I am sure you will see, each is quite spectacular in its own right.

RyanAir is a great company. They offer ticket prices for a fraction of the cost of what most airline tickets go for. But. Yes, there is the but. But they are a wee bit loose in their terminology regarding which airports the various flights go out of. And so it was a stroke of genius on Rainey's part to have our group take the earliest train to Munich (where our flight to Barcelona would depart from) that would allow us almost four hours between arriving and departing. When we arrived at the Munich airport, all bright-eyed and bushy-tailed from our success in arriving so early, we were informed that our flight would be departing from a much smaller airport about an hour and a half away. Understand that at this point, it was about two hours from the actual departure time and just over an hour and a half from the time the gate closed (we still don't know what this means). The nice German ladies told us to take a taxi or a train, and that we may have time to make the flight. And so, lugging all of our gear, we frantically trotted towards the area where all of cabs were milling about and managed to secure a taxi-van-thing that we would all fit in. It took us a total of seventy-five minutes to drive from one airport to the other, on the autobahn. Yes, that's right, we got to ride on the freakin' autobahn! In a taxi-van-thing driven by a man who looked strangely similar to Liev Schreiber. Once at the airport it took all of us a matter of ten minutes to get checked in and to make it through security, even with Lindsey getting run through security three times.

Barcelona is beautiful, by the way. When planning out our trip I was perfectly fine with us only staying one day; I was rather concerned about pick-pocketing and I figured the less time, the better. I really really wish we had been able to stay another night or two because goodness is Barcelona gorgeous. I just... wow. I can't get over it. One of the things that I've noticed a lot since being in Europe is the almost flawless melding of discomforts and joys. It's a rather wonderful way to live, in my opinion, and it was particularly prevalent in Spain (as it was also prevalent in Rome- connection? maybe? yes, I think so); it allows for a greater and deeper appreciation of both sides of life.









Getting out of Barcelona and to Nice was... interesting. For those of you who don't know, France is a tad bit peculiar in their train systems and it makes getting into and out of France difficult for those of us using EUrail passes. We were able to book our train out of Spain just fine, because it was, well, out of Spain. However, we weren't able to book any of our other trains because they originated in France. The plan was to reserve seats for each train in the train station when we arrived, a plan quickly obliterated by the total desolation of the first train station we were to do this in. This is where Alice, Beck, and Dave popped up- three Australian backpackers that were absolutely hilarious and wonderful. The six of us, together with another man who's name I've forgotten and who acted as the quintessential obnoxious American, banded together and found out that we could basically beg the conductor to let us on the train. So, when the train arrived, we befriended this extremely sassy and very helpful willowy woman, who not only let us on the train but gave us a discounted price because of our group. Essentially the same thing happened with the night train, though at this point the obnoxious one had opted out of traveling for the rest of the night because he didn't want to pay the price for a night train ticket, and so it was just the six of us.

En route to Nice, Alice and I talked and talked about the differences between American and Australian societies. Learning about how their universities and educational system are set up was incredibly interesting (why the heck do we not have gap years?!). She and I ended up talking about politics and our respective countries' roles in world affairs. and somehow we wound up talking about racial issues. We spoke of how the "racial problem" as we called it is so huge and the real issue with it. That is, that the solutions often make it worse. For instance, the whole minority scholarship thing. It's a great idea, but there are many who believe it should have been discontinued a couple of generations down from the civil rights movement. Now, if someone petitions to eradicate such programs, they end up being labeled as "racist." Things like that make it so incredibly difficult to address the issue, and without addressing it the whole problem could continue to feed on itself. We also talked about the Aboriginal population in Australia and how much they've been abused. I've read a little bit about it over the years, but not much at all. Learning about the... oh goodness, I can't remember the word; anyways, learning about how a couple of decades ago, children were taken from their families and put into foster care to be "assimilated" into white Australian society, and how they more often than not ended up being abused and basically put into slavery... that horrified me. And it horrified me that I had never really taken the initiative to learn much about Australian history and life and culture. I find myself so often letting my vision be focused on me and who is around me that I don't really think about the world and the people of other countries. There's so much to learn about other cultures and other people that it's a waste of time to continue on with this silly introspective habit. After talking to Alice, I definitely want to travel to Australia and a few Asian countries- China, Japan, Thailand- to get a more level impression of humanity. There's so much to see, and I've only just grazed the surface.

Nice was our breather. Virginia, Kate, and I were incredibly worn down by the time fall break started; we all agreed that Nice was going to be our time of relaxation. It is such a lovely city, right on the coast and very hilly. Our hostel was absolutely fantastic, and that in combination with the no-stress public transportation and the mild weather made for a very calm three days. Once again, I would love to go back.





 

Thursday, October 27, 2011

I've lapsed, again. And you know what? It happened right after I went to Italy.

I have discovered something. 

It's something you probably will be shocked by, before you realize just how much sense it makes.

I HATE Italy. 
"What? Why? Italy is fantastic!" 
No, it's not. It's overpriced, you never get what you pay for, the food is NOT diabetic friendly, I can cook Italian food myself (I come from a rather large Italian family on my father's side), Italians just don't take 'no' for an answer, it's hot, loud, overcrowded and it MAKES NO SENSE. Seriously, you'd think Rome would be better laid out for being the home of one of the supposedly most logical groups of people, ever. It is an organized and introverted diabetic's nightmare.
"Oh... well, yeah..."

Don't get me wrong. Seeing the Vatican, The Birth of Venus, David's Michelangelo and many other pieces of art made this worth it. I just will probably never go back to Italy for any extended amount of time, ever again.I was in pain for a good bit of the time; our group leaders did not walk at a pace that was easy for us shorter folk to keep up with. Because of this, my muscles were on fire from my hips down for the trip.




I will say this: Italy is where I actually branched out and started meeting people outside of my comfort zone. There was one afternoon in Rome where about 2/3 of our group just mingled and shopped and walked together. We ended up sitting on the top of a wall, listening to this Italian guitarist play classic American 50's rock 'n roll (some of us actually started dancing around). After that we went to this local eatery and there was singing and cheering and it was just... fun. It was an evening of moments of infinite contentment. 
 


 
We were able to visit Pompeii and Mt. Vesuvius. We climbed a freaking volcano. And from the top I could see the world... I have never felt so small and so much in the presence of life itself. If I ever go back to Italy, I would like to go to Mt. Vesuvius again. It was beautiful.


Sunday, October 16, 2011

Zurich, in 15,000 words

Zurich was beautiful, though not our first choice. We had originally wanted to go to Berlin, and did not find out until the day our itenerary was due- the day before our train left for Berlin- that there were bombs found on the railways going into the city. So we rapidly revamped our plans and picked Zurich... little did we know how great that decision was. Bennet, Hunter, and Mikayla and I had a fantastic time just walking around the city. It was a little chilly, but that's northern Europe for you- cold climate, slightly cold people, too. 

We went to a fantastic art museum on our first day. It was here that I saw my first Van Gogh. I was just wandering through the exhibits and I rounded a corner and bam! Van Gogh. This alone made our trip worthwhile, for me at least. After the art museum we went and had the most delicious fondue. There's something about melty cheese that is just so much fun. I had done some research before we left Vienna, unbeknownst to the others. I am really glad I did, because Hunter's face lit up as soon as I said I had a great idea for dinner. I don't think I've ever met someone who loves food as much as Hunter does. 

The next day we spent most of our time walking around Zurich. We went to the University and oh lord, was it gorgeous. I got a contact high from being on the campus- you know, how people always say "I'm high on life," only I was high being in the vicinity of knowledge. This got me to thinking, and I think I am probably going to work towards being an English professor.

I love how well our trip worked out, after only having about four hours of planning put into Zurich. I've found myself to be quite a bit more adaptable since being here, even after only a month. I'm also a little bit more confident in my planning. So many have blatantly sassed me about being organized and planning and such, but here it's necessary (to an extent). All of my time management and planning and organizational skills have really come in handy.

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Saturday, October 1, 2011

Off to travel the world a bit more... see y'all in a week!
auf wiedersehen,
c.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Meanwhile, in Poland: good food, a beautiful city, and Auschwitz-Birkenau

Let me tell you a story.
Once upon a time, there was a young and depressed girl. This girl loved to read and loved learning. One day, this girl found a book in the library at her school about a topic she had never heard about- the Holocaust. She knew vaguely what the two world wars were, and she knew that the Holocaust was a terrible and evil time. Beyond that, she knew nothing of any of these topics. She began to read, and became obsessed with the terrible suffering that occurred.
A few months later, it was discovered that the girl had been suffering from hyperglycemia for months and months- a condition that explained the young girl's depression. She was cured of the sadness, but her fascination continued.
And almost a decade later, the young girl now a young woman, was graced with the privilege to visit the epicenter of all of the evil she had read of.


Let me begin by saying this: Poland is a beautiful country. It may be broken and it may be depressingly desolate in areas, but Poland and the people who live there have a beautiful resilience that struck me to my core. The Polish have been walked on for centuries, and yet there was no obvious bitterness or depression. If anything, the Polish seemed so much more friendly and happy than the Viennese.
Krakow's town square at night

In the park, the beginnings of Autumn

Lindsey, Kate, Mikayla, Architecture

I love the buildings here :)
I did not expect Krakow to be this beautiful. I expected to see desolation and poverty, as one is led to believe all communist-affiliated (whether the affiliation is in the past or present) countries appear. It was very strange walking through the city and realizing it was just as beautiful as Vienna. One thing is for sure... I will definitely be going back before I die. Hopefully after mastering a Slavic language, because man is it hard to communicate with people who only speak polish.
Krakow is also the home of Herr Lannom's beloved "Georgian [the country, not the state] restaurant," where we had dinner Thursday evening. For any of you who don't know, I LOVE ethnic food and this place did not disappoint me :)

amazing cheese-covered bread (that plate is about a foot across)

The menu- specifically, what I ordered off the menu

my amazing dinner!
So funny story about that little red pepper in the lower right hand corner. That pepper is a BEAST. Kate, my wonderful, Asian friend Kate, decided to try and eat the pepper on her plate. I think she made it through maybe a third of it before she was all out balling from the heat. Meanwhile, down at the opposite end of the table, I was eyeing my own red pepper. For those of you who haven't had the joy of sitting down to a good ole Cajun meal with me, or a heaping serving of hot wings, I can handle the heat. Seriously. I have taken many a man-card because of my ability to eat more spicy food than an army of tastebudless he-men. So I took a nibble off the end of the little devil. And another. And another. And you know what? It was pretty durn tasty. Right as I stick the rest of the pepper in my mouth, I look over and see Frau and Herr Swann both staring at me with their mouths hanging open. "What?" "You...you just... how... why?!" I couldn't help from laughing at them. They were both just so confused. This was definitely my bad-donkey moment of the trip.
After dinner at the Georgian place, we went to Tribeca Coffee Co. which has the most amazingly amazing hot chocolate you will ever have. Seriously. There are some (you know who you are) who love chocolate SO MUCH that I honestly think a trip to Krakow would be worth it just to go to this place. It was that amazing.

my honey-nut frappe... for whatever reason, I haven't been drinking a lot of black coffee here

Hunter's hot chocolate, and Dr. Schwerdt creepin' on Erin

Erin and Frau Swann

Frau Swann, Erin, Dr. Schwerdt, and Hunter. And a very white mug.
Auschwitz und Birkenau.

I told my mom that this was going to be the most memorable point of my stay in Europe. Years from now, when I'm reminiscing to my kids or grandkids about the time I spent in Europe before I was barely even grown, I'll probably mention my favorite cafe. I'll tell them about Shakespeare and Co., about Rome and Paris and riding the Strassenbahn. But I won't go on about these things like I'll go on about my visit to the concentration and death camps. Is this a wee bit morbid? Maybe. Do I care if it is a wee bit morbid? Not a bit.
Most people have probably read about Auschwitz, the sadistic Josef Mengele, the Stars of David sewn onto coats. Certainly we've heard of Anne Frank and the ghettos. As I explained, I've been fascinated with the whole affair since I was too young to understand the horror of it all. What you don't see in books and documentaries are things like mountains of spectacles and shoes, taken from people right before they're marched to their death. Baby clothes that were stripped from newly-dead infants. Suitcases with names on the outside. In many ways these things are worse than the pictures of emaciated men and women minutes or hours or days or, if they're lucky, months from extermination and an unmarked grave.
What struck me the most was the hair. Most of the barracks at Auschwitz (apparently it had been a military base before it was a concentration camp) had been converted into museum-style buildings on the inside. I think it was the second or third exhibit we went into... up until this point I had let myself begin to think that maybe I would be alright through the day, that maybe I would get away from the place without having a physical reaction. And then we rounded the corner and there, lining a wall at least twenty feet long, was a five or six foot deep case filled with mounds of human hair. In here is what we believe to be hair from over 40,000 people, mostly women, to be sent for textile production... I felt the bile rise up and I had to watch my feet for the next few minutes to avoid tearing up or vomiting. Human hair. For "textile production;" for making fabric! It is so inconceivable to me that human life became so meaningless to the Nazis that they couldn't even leave the corpses with their hair.

"Arbeit Macht Frei" (work makes you free)

The barracks

barbed wire and beauty... such a contradiction


the one and only crematorium at Auschwitz
After seeing the mounds of hair, I had to fight to not choke on the sorrow of the place. And what made it so much worse was that Auschwitz is so strikingly beautiful- not at all what I thought it would look like. To me it seems as if the earth is trying to purge out the despair and suffering that has seeped into the very soil. I was constantly oscillating back and forth between noticing the beauty of the area and the hair standing up on the back of my neck, especially when looking at the crematorium.

But Auschwitz was no where near as shocking as Birkenau. Auschwitz did not have the fields of crematoria chimneys. Auschwtiz did not have the literal end-of-the-line railroad tracks. Auschwitz did not have the gas chambers.
a barrack... that was obviously once a stable

field of chimneys

the end of the line
Can you even imagine what it would have been like to live here? It breaks my heart so much to realize that someone had enough hatefulness and ego to cause this to happen. The road that our group is walking on next to the train tracks is the road that men and women would walk on towards the gas chambers, to their death. It struck me later on, while I was reflecting on it all, how I got to walk back on a road that so many didn't. I was able to walk away from the woods, away from where the chambers were.

About one and a half million individuals died here. One and a half million lives, dramas, sets of love affairs and hatreds and joys and cares and sorrows. It just hurts my soul. I knew this trip was going to be difficult for me spiritually. What I didn't expect was that it made me feel closer to God… or to at least feel like I understand Him better. I think I might actually be mentally and emotionally built for the “grim acceptance” style of faith. I think so many people like to sugar coat God and how he acts, and they overlook the fact that he indirectly created all of the sorrow we deal with- that he allowed us to have free will, which has led to the existence of evil. That he continues to allow evil to exist. And I think that’s one of his greatest kindnesses that he gave us something to contrast with the absolute joy we can experience. When we left Birkenau, I'm pretty sure everyone fell asleep on the bus. I felt less emotional strain and more like I could sleep for years and years and still not have had enough.
That evening, a group of us had a wonderful dinner with the Swanns and Herr Lannom and Dr. Schwerdt at this little Italian bistro. The meal must've lasted at least three hours. It had that community and family feel that Thanksgiving dinner has. I think in many ways that meal helped me heal a bit of the ache that had taken root in my heart.

Erin and her raviolis 

My linguine

Okay, strange expression on Herr Lannom's face

Emily being silly
I am so thankful for our Vienna family. Honestly, I am just thankful, period. I had time to go into St. Mary's, the beautiful Cathedral in Krakow, and pray and get a lot of this off my chest. I would not have been able to do that under different circumstances. And I doubt few would've dealt with that in the same manner that Kate and Lindsey and Mikayla did.
St. Mary's


Mikayla, Lindsey, and me being goofy in the bubbles
Until next time...